Weapons of Mass Destruction (WMD)

DATE=7/19/01

TYPE=CORRESPONDENT REPORT

NUMBER=5-49818

TITLE=INDIA/PAK BORDER CEREMONY

DATELINE=WAGAH, PAKISTAN

BYLINE=JON TKACH

VOICED AT=

CONTENT=

INTRO: As India and Pakistan try to put together the pieces from their summit earlier this month, their years of heated rivalry continue to take center stage. At the historic Wagah (VAH-guh) border crossing, their antagonism makes for a peculiar sight each day, as the two countries try to outperform each other during a joint flag-lowering ceremony. But as V-O-A's Jon Tkach (KOTCH) reports, the daily ritual has also been a rare symbol of cooperation between the two neighbors for more than 50-years.

TEXT:

/// NAT SOUND: CROWD CHANTING UP TO FULL, THEN FADE TO: ///

This raucous crowd would seem much more at home at a football or cricket match.

But they have been gathering here at this border crossing for several hours - as they do every day at sunset - for the lowering of the flags. It is a military ceremony played out all across the sub-continent - but this one is truly like no other.

Captain Jawad Cheema is company commander of the Pakistani Rangers here.

/// FIRST CHEEMA ACT ///

People coming here once they see their jawans (soldiers) on parade and jawans doing ceremony with full enthusiasm. So they become emotional like this. See they have started. Nara-e-takbeer Allah-hu-akbar: God is great.

/// FADE NAT SND TO: ///

The mainly Hindu Indian crowd seated in the grandstands across the border also chants and stamps out their own nationalist slogans.

They have come to see the pick of the Indian Border Security Forces and Pakistani Rangers put on a well-rehearsed and synchronized show.

But the chanting crowds seem more interested in the rivalry, as marching and posturing soldiers try to outdo their counterparts on the other side.

/// BEGIN OPT /// Wagah has taken on the look of a sports arena, except that these playing grounds are divided by one of the world's most tense international borders.

Pakistani Captain Jawad Cheema says his soldiers vie for national pride every day.

/// SECOND CHEEMA ACT ///

As far as the ceremony or parade is concerned, we definitely go for competition. We definitely look for better performance from our side, because people coming here they expect a lot many standards from our side.

/// END ACT // END OPT ///

The 30-minute ceremony begins with a small parade of soldiers on each side. Soon, an Indian and a Pakistani soldier each get the spotlight. They slowly, but forcefully perform a choreographed march toward the gates separating the two sides.

/// NAT SND: MARCHING SOUND UP TO FULL, THEN FADE TO: ///

Egged on by the crowd, they kick and stamp their feet, puff out their chests and stare each other down. The display is unmistakably hostile - a well-coordinated act of aggression.

/// NAT SND: GATE CRASHING AND CROWD, THEN FADE TO:

///

They violently fling open the gates and face off in the 10-meters of no man's land. Finally, they shake hands. Then the gates shut again.

On with the show.

/// NAT SND: CROWD AND MARCHING UP TO FULL THEN FADE TO: ///

In the stands, a Pakistani spectator, Usman Abdula, admits that the show was not the only thing that brought him here.

/// ABDULA ACT ///

We have never seen the Indian people before. So I am looking at basically my 53-year rivals right in front of me, so this can be the fulfillment of a lifetime ambition.

/// END ACT ///

Looking across the border at the Indian spectators - many of whom share common blood with his own ancestors - Mr. Abdula notes that they do not look all that different.

/// NAT SND: GATES SWINGING OPEN, THEN FADE TO: ///

Back on center stage, the ceremony has hit its climax as soldiers again swing open the gates on cue to finally lower the flags.

The flags come down slowly, at an angle. They eventually cross, falling into each other, before being carefully folded away.

/// NAT SND: GATES SWINGING SHUT AND CROWD, THEN FADE TO: ///

As the gates are slammed shut for the night, hundreds of men from both sides rush in, held back by police. Jumping, cheering and taunting, they yell slogans and beat their chests at each other across the wrought iron gates.

But many others stay out of the mad rush and quietly walk up near the gates, eyeing curiously across to the other side.

And instead of raised fists, a few of them simply flash a smile and an occasional wave to their neighbors on the other side. (SIGNED)

NEB/JON/RAE